Gettin a new look here at vital climbing gym (Taken with instagram)
Black mountain! Not a bad way to spend the holiday weekend, despite the growling heat and being eaten alive by insects. The rock was hot and sharp, similar to Jtree but larger crystals. My fingers hurt just thinking about it. To be honest I’m getting less motivated on bouldering and completely psyched on rope, though I still struggle to get on the sharp end. Maybe it was just the heat and greasy holds, the joke of the trip was, “yeah I could totally send this if it was 30 out.” But hey it’s always good to get out of the suburbs and around the campfire with good beer and great company. I’ve been saying this a lot but I think this is my last trip for the summer, time to train and save some money for the fall.
Hit el cajon mountain on Monday with Travis and Andy, it was a little warm but well worth it to find out the vast amount of epic that was out there, especially because it was my first multi-pitch adventure; I still have to thank them for that. The first route we got on was Triton Tower(11a), 4 pitches of beautiful exposure! The first pitch was 5.8, a nice bit of slab to start it off. The 2nd was 10a with some cool undercling traverse to some techy moves right under the roof that really got the blood and the brain workin. Then out in the open air on the arête above the roof, 11a, I’m pretty sure I got the crux move but ended up in a bad position and got gases. Pop and there goes the flash, but I’ll be back for the red point for sure. The 4th ended it nicely with a 5.7, then I got my rap skills dialed. A memorable moment indeed. Between routes we found some refuge under a large boulder, had some lunch and got back on the wall. We met up with Line of Fire(11a) on the lower right dihedrals and Travis was still up for the onsights. Lots of variety in this one. Started on a slippery slap that traversed right to proud arête, then left atop the dihedral and out on the face. Sadly Travis lost the onsight when he found a bomber handjam, but was too extended and the rubber didn’t hold his left foot on the wall. “so it goes.” I don’t even want to talk about slopsesh attempt, I probably wouldn’t of made it up without Travis takin a few pounds off my harness. Luckily Andy was there to show us how it’s done with an impressive flash of route, I know it was only 11a but that thing was fuckin weird! A true classic.
Approaching midday with the temps being there highest we were hesitant to continue, but Andy spotted something in the shade so we went to check it out. Huggy Bear(12b). Travis had just tied into the sharp end and was standing to approach the start, but because the man is a GIANT he didn’t notice the large block with the sharp edge just above his dome… It was pretty hard not to laugh, given the amount of blood, but Travis was alright and that seemed to be the appropriate time to call it quits. All in all it was an epic day and I’m yearning for the next!
first time at the tram and it was rough! staredt out with adam, (syd)ney, and i getting there 10 mins before the last tram went up. not luck, i drove fast… never leaving on a friday again. so, what started out as a pleasant night hike turn for the worst when a trio of college kids said “hey i know a short cut!” and I had us follow them. 3 hours of hiking up hill and we were lost in the san jacinto mountains. after a few bad ankles and a bit of throwing up, we decided to set up camp and continue on in the morning. 530am wake up and we’re off, screw finding the trail, we’ll back track instead! so after some wandering through the woods we can across the trail. which was .3 miles from the tram station… which was 2 miles from round valley camp ground… finally after a long hike with a lot f rests and a lil poop, we made it to round valley and found stephen and sydney. TIME TO CLIMB! we had no energy… climbed a few unknown boulders, one of them was pretty cool, some right hand undercling cross over top to a bad sloper, catch the barn door, gain the right crimp, get the high left foot and chuck to a juggy dish. i couldnt get the last throw. after an hour of scoping out the possibilities, we end up back at camp, resting most of the day. 4 hours and a good tan later stephen sydney and I went to check out the established bouldering area. blah blah blah 5 miles in the wrong direction yata yata yata. we ended up back at the tram station from the back side of the round valley loop. so yeah, we hit the bar. after enjoying a few arrogent bastards, overpriced fries, and grabbin some road beers, we were back on trail. this time on the right trail. we found the landmark boulder and that was enough for the day, trekked back to camp for some wine and dinner. the morning was cold. windy. and cold. it took me a while to get out of my bag. ate breakfast(powder eggs), packed our things and we’re off. first thing we hit was the all day boulder in kung fu canyon. started with chai tea v1 traverses right along a crack then to another crack going left. then to the v2 variation up the face, cool deadpoint move to a sloper, gain the crack and top her out.
after a good warm up we were ready for the cube. there were already several climbers there so i had a brewie and watched for a bit. i already knew the beta so i didnt mind watching their variations. its was our turn, WARNING BETA AHEAD! the cube starts out laying back in a juggy punch with your right hand dominate and left on top for balance. you have a obvious left foot below and flag out the right. from there make a big move up to the sloping rail with the left hand, then get a right heel high near the right hand and cut the left foot. match the right hand to the sloping rail. get the left foot back on; the higher foot chip above the one previous. bump the left hand up and out to a good sidepull. secure the right heel, compress and get ready for the throw. breath. explode to the decent slopers on the lip. bring the left foot under the right heel and prevent the swing with a toe hook. once loaded bring the right foot up to the sloping rail. get the left hand to join the right on the lip and traverse left to where you can mantle over the top.
Possibly the last trip to Joshua Tree for the season(i got a job…). But hey my weekends are open and if we can get people to join the party, I’m sure we’ll be back. I was glad to have Mikey T out there with us, he seemed to of had a good time, until he got a flapper on he’s pinky toe and was just about done the rest of the trip. he slept a lot. haha. Out of all the trips out there this month this was the most unmotivated for climbing, the first day we had Mikey, Will, Eric, and Julia; it was their first time out there climbing, so energy was high and we were lookin to send. We warmed up on some boulders at Ryans, but quickly made our way to hidden valley to give Stem Gem a run. There was a camp that pitched a tent just below that classic(must not have been a climber), though there was enough room to throw down some pads. I was feeling rather confident having run laps on stem gem on the previous trip, but with a worn edge on my solutions, all was shattered. Will and I were getting close, constantly getting to the crux just after the stem portion, but with every slip we lost more and more trust in our feet. We hiked around a bit and slowly made it to the manx boulders were we processed to fail, but still enjoyed ourselves, its hard to have a bad time when you’re with your close friends. As hours went on the temperature rose to match and before we knew it that energy fell with the sun over the hills. Out can Jameson and he bought Smores:)! Everyone left that night beside Mikey, Oso, and I.
all of the above
the send song today is WEATHER by dusty brown off there ep, the city is killing me(appropriate for the way i’ve been feelin lately). you can get the ep fo freeee at dustybrown.com, check’em out!